Adding a DAB/DAB+ aerial – DIY

Adding a DAB/DAB+ aerial – DIY is useful if you haven’t decided how to add on DAB/DAB+ support to your vehicle.

See the main article to see the other options – Adding a DAB/DAB+ aerial to the Volkswagen Golf Mark V & VI, Jetta, Passat and others The connector on the rear of the head unit is a Fakra Black Type A plug so a Fakra Black Type A jack (or a universal one) is required on the DIY aerial, see the this article for further information on Fakra connectors – FAKRA (SMB) Connector Information and Specifications.

In this example I’ve used a spare RNS 510 GPS aerial with RJ174 coax, cut off the GPS aerial and removed the Fakra Blue Type C jack housing from around the connector.

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Construction is simple.

1. Strip away the outer insulation and the braided shield from the first 300mm.

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2. Strip away the outer insulation on the next 230mm.

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3. Make a coil after the braided section of 50mm in diameter and secure with some electrical tape or similar.

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4. Add electrical tape or heatshrink to the end of the braided section as shown and the end of the aerial to enable it to be hung up.

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This aerial is best suited to a static environment such as a house but works quite well in a vehicle in various locations such as behind the front seats and the b-pillars.

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Original concept was from here – http://www.audiobritain.co.uk/DAB.html

9 thoughts on “Adding a DAB/DAB+ aerial – DIY”

  1. thx for nice tutorial, this aerial works better then internal glass mount dedicated for my car radio, one more time thx

  2. Why is needed to strip the outer insulation for next 230mm ??? The cable insulation is not blocking the radio waves !!
    I think 300 mm wire is enough for a dab antenna…

    1. I’m not 100% sure of the reason but I found that it doesn’t work as well without it. I have been using this aerial for ages as I still haven’t had time to fit the roof aerial and it works pretty well.

  3. Why uses RJ174 or RG174?
    The impedance of that coax is 50 ohm, while the arial input impedance is 75 ohm.
    I see that you used thin coax because of the two windings, the function of the windings is to make a high impedance for VHF, perhaps is the use of ferroxcube also possible?>

  4. Hi, I own an 2005 mk5 GTI with an aftermarket stereo (Kenwood DNX 5220), there are two fakra connectors from the original aerial instalation, but one of them is a little bit damage. As they are behind the stereo can you tell me please what fakra connector should I buy to replace it? I’ll follow this DIY but where should I connect it? wich connector? Thanks

  5. This really does work. I went from one or two staions to 40 all at full signal strength. It took me about half an hour.
    James

  6. judging by the construction technique where you expose the braided shield i would say that this aerial type is meant to be a coaxial dipole, i. e the aerial has two verticle elements one above each other. The exposed inner core is the top half of the dipole while the exposed braid is supposed to be the the bottom half, unfortunately the construction is not strictly correct. You should…

    1) Remove the outer insulation to 300mm from end
    2) Cut back the braided shield to 250mm from end
    3) Cut 300mm of aluminium tube with 5mm internal diameter
    4) Slide the tube over the end of the cable and down over the outer insulation
    5) Line up the end of the tube with the end of the outer insulation and fix tube in place (e. g. block other end to stop it sliding down the cable)
    6) Fold back the remaining exposed braided shield evenly over the end of the tube where it lines up with the outer insulation and use heatshrink to hold it in place, then tie wrap firmly to ensure a good connection.
    7) The coil if necessary should be at the receiver location it acts a a common mode choke to block rf picked up on the coax shield. Use clip on ferrite beads as found on power cables if coil is too unsightly in fact use them at both locations.

    … you now have a proper half wave dipole with an impedance that more or less matches the coax input on your tuner. Additional thoughts are…

    the aluminium tube could be replaced by using RG-158 cable of the same length and pulling out the inner core with it’s insulator… you would then have a flexible aerial that could be rolled up… assuming you could slide it over the RG-174 after you first folded back the exposed braid over the end of the insulation of the RG-174.

    the coil being located at the aerial location is necessary if the aerial is to be used with a transmitter.

    your construction works as a recieving aerial because it is a half wave length vertical aerial fed via coax and so there is no point removing the insulation from the braided screen and the impedance will not match your tuner.

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