my-gti.com » LED http://www.my-gti.com Wed, 25 Jan 2012 05:48:04 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Adding Interior Door Handle Illumination to the Volkswagen Golf and Jetta – Front http://www.my-gti.com/2249/adding-interior-door-handle-illumination-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta-front http://www.my-gti.com/2249/adding-interior-door-handle-illumination-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta-front#comments Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:22:29 +0000 Maverick http://www.my-gti.com/?p=2249 This guide is not yet complete – any information contained within has not been confirmed yet.

Parts required:

Suitable LED and resister for 12V operation. 000 979 009 (000979009) - Repair Wire (1 required for 2 doors or 1 required per door – see below) I’m not sure if there is a spare ground on the controller or if an existing [...]]]> This guide is not yet complete – any information contained within has not been confirmed yet.

Parts required:

  • Suitable LED and resister for 12V operation.
  • 000 979 009 (000979009) - Repair Wire (1 required for 2 doors or 1 required per door – see below)
    I’m not sure if there is a spare ground on the controller or if an existing one has to be used.
  • Interior fabric adhesive tape - Fabric Adhesive Tape for wiring looms and harnesses
  • Trim Removal Tools
  • Selection of heat shrink tubing (3-5mm), soldering iron/blowtorch, solder
  • Vagcom/VCDS to code the door (this can be done before or after the install)

Volkswagen Golf & Jetta Door Controller Information Mark V has information on the door controllers. This guide will be based on the install in my March 2008 build MY08 GTI.

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]]> http://www.my-gti.com/2249/adding-interior-door-handle-illumination-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta-front/feed 5 Adding Interior Door Handle Illumination to the Volkswagen Golf and Jetta – Rear http://www.my-gti.com/2250/adding-interior-door-handle-illumination-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta-rear http://www.my-gti.com/2250/adding-interior-door-handle-illumination-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta-rear#comments Sun, 25 Apr 2010 07:13:32 +0000 Maverick http://www.my-gti.com/?p=2250 This guide is not yet complete – any information contained within has not been confirmed yet.

Parts required:

Suitable LED and resister for 12V operation.. 000 979 018 (000979018) - Repair Wire (1 required for 2 doors or 1 required per door – see below) I’m not sure if there is a spare ground on the controller or if an [...]]]>

This guide is not yet complete – any information contained within has not been confirmed yet.

Parts required:

  • Suitable LED and resister for 12V operation..
  • 000 979 018 (000979018) - Repair Wire (1 required for 2 doors or 1 required per door – see below)
    I’m not sure if there is a spare ground on the controller or if an existing one has to be used.
  • Interior fabric adhesive tape - Fabric Adhesive Tape for wiring looms and harnesses
  • Trim Removal Tools
  • Selection of heat shrink tubing (3-5mm), soldering iron/blowtorch, solder
  • Vagcom/VCDS to code the door (this can be done before or after the install)

Volkswagen Golf & Jetta Door Controller Information Mark V has information on the door controllers. This guide will be based on the install in my March 2008 build MY08 GTI.

volkswagen_golf_door_handle_illumination_rear_vcds_01

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]]> http://www.my-gti.com/2250/adding-interior-door-handle-illumination-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta-rear/feed 3 Adding Door Puddle Lights to the Volkswagen Golf and Jetta http://www.my-gti.com/2084/adding-door-puddle-lights-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta http://www.my-gti.com/2084/adding-door-puddle-lights-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta#comments Sat, 24 Apr 2010 11:51:28 +0000 Maverick http://www.my-gti.com/?p=2084 This guide covers the installation of the puddle lights to the Volkswagen Golf and Jetta front doors as fitted in some countries and specifications of Mark V’s and to some models of the EOS. Along with the Door Warning Lights these really light up the area around the side of the car.

The light operates every time [...]]]> This guide covers the installation of the puddle lights to the Volkswagen Golf and Jetta front doors as fitted in some countries and specifications of Mark V’s and to some models of the EOS. Along with the Door Warning Lights these really light up the area around the side of the car.

The light operates every time the door is operated and stays on after you close the door (longer than the coming home time) but turn off when you arm/lock the car. When you unlock the car they turn on and stay on longer than the leaving home time.

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Adding puddle lights to the Volkswagen Golf or Jetta can be be achieved in two ways.

  • Purchase new mirrors with puddle lights fitted (estimated cost AUD$800/USD$400)
    • 1K1 857 507 BT 9B9 – Driver’s Mirror, power, heated, puddle lights (MY06 Golf/Jetta)
    • 1K1 857 508 BR 9B9 – Passenger’s Mirror, power, heated, puddle lights (MY06 Golf/Jetta)
  • Modify the existing mirrors to add a lense and suitable leds (estimated cost AUD$30/USD$25)
    • Trim Removal Tools
    • Selection of heat shrink tubing (3-5mm), soldering iron/blowtorch, solder
    • Vagcom/VCDS to code the door (this can be done before or after the install)

Volkswagen Golf & Jetta Door Controller Information Mark V has information on the door controllers. This guide was based on the install in my March 2008 build MY08 GTI.

First remove the door trim – Passengers Front Door Trim – Removal and Installation

The mirror cover – Removal and Installation of Mirror Covers from the Volkswagen Golf Mark V

And finally the mirror – Removal and Installation of Mirrors from the Volkswagen Golf Mark V

Extra cable to mirror

Adding extra cable to the mirror for the lights – this section can be skipped if you want to use the mirror heating cabling instead.

This is where the cable exits the mirror and enters inside the car.

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This is the other end where the cable appears inside the mirror. Start by inserting the wire into the top and pushing inside.

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The cable will be visible and you can fish it out with a suitable piece of wire.

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Pull the wire through until you have almost enough to reach the controller. We need to wrap this cable next.

volkswagen_golf_mirror_puddle_lights_wiring_04

Using an exterior fabric adhesive tape – Fabric Adhesive Tape for wiring looms and harnesses – cover enough of the cable so that the part inside the mirror hinge and partway out each end is covered with two layers. This is especially important on the motorised mirrors that fold back.

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Now pull the covered section through.

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Leaving the uncovered section out like this.

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Route the new cable as follows to follow the path of the existing cable.

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And tape it to the existing loom.

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This step identified Pin 10 as the positive power for the puddle light.

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Insert the repair wire into the pin 10 position. Note. if you are using the mirror heater connection what you need to do is remove the pin from the mirror heater position and move it to pin 10.

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Place a suitable piece of  heat shrink tubing (3.5mm to 4.5mm) on the repair wire, bare the ends of the repair wire and new wire to the mirror and twist them together before soldering.

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Now pull the heat shrink over the connection and apply heat to shrink.

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Using an interior fabric adhesive tape - Fabric Adhesive Tape for wiring looms and harnesses – wrap the new cable onto the existing mirror loom.

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Replace the Door Mirror

Now reinstall the door mirror – Removal and Installation of Mirrors from the Volkswagen Golf Mark

Fit the puddle light and lense to the mirror

Depress the clips on the rear of the mirror at the points shown and pull the frame towards you as shown by the arrows and it will slide off.

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Undo the two torx screws shown to release the mirror indicator and the lower housing from the mirror (torx T10)

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Once the indicator and housing are hanging depress the clip around the middle of the indicator and the two will separate.

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Work out where you want the lense to be installed taking into account clearance at the front of the mirror for the mirror assembly, the frame we removed earlier and the height of the LED module.

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Drill from the inside of the housing using a hole saw  into some scrap timber (with paper towels on top if you don’t want to scratch the surface).

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Next dremel around where the lense will go to increase the clearance for the LED module and to decrease the lip underneath the mirror housing.

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Clean the surface with a suitable cleaner and apply some automotive silicone.

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Push the glass into place and clean the excess off with mineral turpentine.

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There will be a gap around the outside in which you fill with a 5 minute two part epoxy for strength. The silicone is mainly there for waterproofing plus the epoxy means after 30 minutes we can continue with the install. Remember to allow the silicone time to cure before you get it wet.

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Fit the LED module into location and using 5 minute epoxy glue it into position, build the back up with double sided tape to provide mechanical strength.

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The LED module glued into position.

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Now reattach the indicator, route the wire (you will need to extend the stock wires, DON’T use the connector that came with it as they are useless and it will fail but instead solder the new ones and use heatshrink tubing) and check that the LED module is securely in place.

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Removed the negative connection to the mirror and solder a wire to it and to the negative wire on the LED module before reattaching to the mirror. Use tape to connect the new wire to the mirror heater wire.

Note: If you are using the mirror heater wires for power detach the positive wire and solder a wire to it and the positive wire of the LED module but do not reattach the positive wire, instead pull it into the rear of the mirror and heatshrink it.

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Both wires reattached to the mirror and the mirror surround frame slid back on.

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Wrap the connectors up well to protect from water ingress.

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Code the puddle light

Open the door controller, in this guide it’s the drivers door – 42 and select “Coding – 07″

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Make a note of the coding value.

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Add 2 to the coding value and select “Do It!” to save.

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Select “Close Controller” to exit.

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Replace the Door Mirror Cover

Reinstall the door mirror cover – Removal and Installation of Mirror Covers from the Volkswagen Golf Mark V

The finished product

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]]> http://www.my-gti.com/2084/adding-door-puddle-lights-to-the-volkswagen-golf-and-jetta/feed 7 Upgrading the number plate lights to LED on the Volkswagen Golf, Jetta, GTI, R32, Rabbit and Passat http://www.my-gti.com/1053/upgrading-the-number-plate-lights-to-led-on-the-volkswagen-golf-jetta-gti-r32-rabbit-and-passat http://www.my-gti.com/1053/upgrading-the-number-plate-lights-to-led-on-the-volkswagen-golf-jetta-gti-r32-rabbit-and-passat#comments Mon, 29 Jun 2009 12:11:55 +0000 Maverick http://www.my-gti.com/?p=1053  

The bulb indicator denotes a failed bulb

 

The rear number plate lights can be upgraded to LED however there is a problem with the bulb monitoring detecting failed bulbs and displaying a warning on the instrument cluster and MFD. There are a few approaches that can be taken and all revolve around adding extra resistance to [...]]]>  

The bulb indicator denotes a failed bulb

The bulb indicator denotes a failed bulb

 

The rear number plate lights can be upgraded to LED however there is a problem with the bulb monitoring detecting failed bulbs and displaying a warning on the instrument cluster and MFD. There are a few approaches that can be taken and all revolve around adding extra resistance to the rear number plate light circuit to prevent the warning, one option is to install a resistor inside the car on that citcuit and the other approach is to add the resistor to the LED lights whilst being mindful that the bulbs are enclosed in a sealed enclosure so excess heat will melt the light fitting (as will fitting 10watt bulbs like the Polargs to replace the existing 5 watt bulbs).

The point at which the bulb out warning activates is around 6 watts and the LED modules that were used here are 1.5 watts so an additional 3 watts of load was required, after some testing 2 x 270 ohm resistors performed nicely and did not generate excessive heat.

Parts required are

Start by wrapping the resistor around the body paying attention to the end that is isolated from the body (some shrink wrap will be placed around this end to prevent a short circuit), once the legs are fully wrapped use a dremel/sandpaper/file/knife to scratch away the coating near the legs in preperation for soldering. Place some shrink wrap over the resistor and the leg on the end that is isolated and solder the legs to the end caps.

The resistor needs to be kept close to the body to maintain clearance to fit into the housing and to transfer heat to the body away from the resistor.

lighting_number_plate_01lighting_number_plate_03lighting_number_plate_02

Once both units have been finished all that’s left is to fit them, these are polarity sensitive so if they don’t work the first time you put them in reverse them. When fitted to the holder correctly as shown below they have room to spare on each side. Make sure they are facing downwards as the light output is very directional unlike the standard bulb which outputs in all directions.

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]]> http://www.my-gti.com/1053/upgrading-the-number-plate-lights-to-led-on-the-volkswagen-golf-jetta-gti-r32-rabbit-and-passat/feed 7 Golf hatch light upgrade to twin LED modules http://www.my-gti.com/297/golf-hatch-light-upgrade-to-twin-led-modules http://www.my-gti.com/297/golf-hatch-light-upgrade-to-twin-led-modules#comments Wed, 12 Nov 2008 12:52:33 +0000 Maverick http://my-gti.com/?p=297 The standard lighting in the hatch of the MarkV Golf leaves a lot to be desired, the easiest way to upgrade this is the use of LED modules. The drop in replacement units that replace the standard globe are not going to push out much more in the way of light because of the design of [...]]]> The standard lighting in the hatch of the MarkV Golf leaves a lot to be desired, the easiest way to upgrade this is the use of LED modules. The drop in replacement units that replace the standard globe are not going to push out much more in the way of light because of the design of the fitting so I choose to use 2 flat directional 28 LED modules. Installation takes around 60 minutes.

The standard lighting is shown in the photo to the right.

After unpacking the new LED light kit you will have a set of adapters for replacing the standard light, foam to stick the LED light kit to a surface and the LED unit itself.

This unit has 28 LED’s in a 4 x 7 layout. (edit I’ve just replaced the units with a 48 LED unit – see details and photo below – the photos still show the 28 LED module)

The standard globe is around 39mm which is longer then the longest adapter. There are a few options here. You can cut the wiring harness and join the wires on, solder wires to the light fitting or my recommended way is to extend the longest adapter. This is a simple process that involves you carefully using pliers or slip joint  pliers to loosen the ends, once one end comes off mix up some epoxy resin and fill the end and part of the tube and push it back together until you end up with the adapter being the same lenghth as shown in the photo below. The 48 LED module comes with a spring loaded adapter so this isn’t required however I would place some shrink wrap over the outside to minimise any risk of the spring moving and causing a short as this will blow the interior light fuse.


Clip the adapter into the light fitting and fit the light as shown, the double sided tape included is sufficient to hold the module in position but as there is little surface area for it to stick it you need to wipe down the area with a suitable cleaner. You could use a cable tie to ensure it stays in place as you can see in the photo to the left but I found this isn’t required, this can all be done without removing any trim. You can see a wire attached to the harness in this photo which is the power to the other side and also at the right hand edge you can see where the wire passes down from the top behind the trim and down into the trim that runs down beside the hatch opening.

The photo on the right shows the hatch with one of the new LED modules installed, the light is an improvment but there is still a shadow cast by the wheel arch.

To run the cable around to the other side I tucked it in around the trim, you can see the wire sticking out from a few places to give you an idea of how to run it. The left hand side LED module is fitted the same way as the first, get the wire hanging out of the correct location and then fit the module and stick it into position.


That’s it, the install is now finished, all the wires can be tucked away and you should have a result that looks like this (the new 48 LED modules are even brighter and have a slightly warmer colour).

The 48 LED modules are USD $8.28 delivered anywhere in the world from Dealexteme, the new .  The light is also projected out to the ground behind the car providing extra illumination. These LED modules draw ~3.4w (275ma @ 12.45v) each so combined they draw ~6.8w which is ~1.8w more then the single incandescent globe did earlier.

New 48 LED Module

The 28 LED modules are USD $10.84 delivered anywhere in the world from Dealexteme however I ended up with dry joints on both of these in a number of locations, some where from new and some developed soon afterwards so I don’t recommend these any more.

It might be worthwhile fitting a resister when the lights are installed if the lights are operated with the engine running but as I only use my hatch with the car switched off most of the time I didn’t worry about this.

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