Adding new circuits to your Volkswagen Golf / Jetta / Passat / EOS / Scirocco /Passat fuse box is reasonably straight forward, allow 2 hours for the first time and 1 hour for each time after that.
(Golf 1K1 /1K5, Golf Plus 5M1, Passat 3C2/3C5, Passat CC 357, EOS 1F7, Scirocco 137)
There are two sizes used in the interior fuse box, ATM and ATO size. These are commonly referred to as Mini and Standard. In the main fuse box there is an additional type called ATX but commonly referred to as Maxi.
Repair Wire or Terminals for additional circuits
To install new circuits you require either repair wire (two terminals on the end of one short cable, cut the cable in the middle and join the two cables to the new circuits) or terminals (not recommended see below for details).
The small fuses in the fusebox use the 2.8mm terminals. The terminals are the same size but the repair wires are different sizes. I used the 1.0mm wire size for this guide.
- 000 979 021 (000979021): 0.5mm wire
- 000 979 133 (000979133): 1.0mm wire (used for this guide)
- 000 979 225 (000979225): 2.5mm wire
Crimp on pins are available as well but I recommend the repair wires unless you’re familiar with the crimping process:
- N 906 844 05 (N90684405): for 1.0mm wire
- N 906 845 05 (N90684505): for 2.5mm wire
The large fuses in the fusebox use the 4.8mm terminals. The terminals are the same size but the repair wires are different sizes. These were not installed in this guide but the process is identical.
- 000 979 023 (000979023): 0.5mm wire
- 000 979 135 (000979135): 1.0mm wire
- 000 979 227 (000979227): 2.5mm wire
- 000 979 306 (000979306): 4.0mm wire
Crimp on pins are available as well but I recommend the repair wires unless you’re familiar with the crimping process:
- N 907 326 03 (N90732603): for 1.0mm wire
- N 907 327 03 (N90732703): for 2.5mm wire
- N 906 966 03 (N90696603): for 4.0mm wire
- N 904 221 02 (N90422102): for 6.0mm wire
Fuses available and their colours are listed at the end of this guide.
Using repair wire to connect to your new circuits.
Cut the repair wire in two as shown, I recommend unequal length so the two soldering joints are not adjacent to one another.
Twist the connectors together and solder as shown keeping the joins as small as possible. Ensure that you have installed the heatshrink tubing on the cable before you solder!
The finished product should look like this.
Installation of new circuits
This guide is for RHD Volkswagen Golfs, the LHD fuse box removal is easier and does not require the removal of trim.
Important: Make sure all the doors are unlocked, the key is not in the ignition and disconnect the car battery.
Start by removing the cover over the fusebox, a small notch is visible 2/3rds of the way down on the side where you can place the ignition key and lever this off. Once this has been removed you will see the fuse box.
Next remove the two clips as indicated, these can be pushed out from behind with your finger.
Remove the headlight switch by pushing the knob inwards when on Auto and turning it around to the off position.
This will allow the locking tab to withdraw.
Remove the screw at the rear top.
Remove the drivers side drawer by opening it and pressing the sides together at the back to release it and once open you can remove the drawer by unclipping the hinge. Remove the two screws at the bottom and the one at the top.
Pop the trim above the steering column by using a trim removal tool, be careful not to scratch the trip around the instruments as there is a metal clip on the rear of this trim.
Remove the screw and sit the trim back in place.
The trim panel can now be removed and the fuse box can be loosened by undoing the screw on the top and bottom of the fuse box.
The fuse box is now loose.
Pull the label forward (don’t remove it) to uncover one of the three sets of clips holding the cover on.
Gently unclip the three clips around the cover.
Remove the fuse box cover and expose the rear of the fuse box.
The next step requires removing all your fuses, as nearly every fuse box is different it is essential you document the fuse layout, at the very least take photos and even write them down.
These are the two locations where we will be installing our connectors and creating our new circuits.
Insert a small flat head screwdriver where indicated and move the carrier downwards as indicated to enable the connectors to be unlocked.
Insert the repair connectors as shown.
The carrier has been slid back into place to lock the connectors.
The new circuits have been run in along the same path as the factory loom.
Snap the cover back into place.
Refasten the fuse box into place.
Reinstall the fuses including the new fuse(s) if the circuits are connected or have been isolated.
Reinstall the trim following the removal instructions in reverse and place the cover back over the fuse box and reconnect the car battery.
Fuses available and their colours.
ATM Type Mini Fuse
- 7.5 Amp – Brown
- 10 Amp – Red
- 15 Amp – Blue
- 20 Amp – Yellow
- 25 Amp – White
- 30 Amp – Green
ATO Type Standard Fuse
- 5 Amp – Orange
- 7.5 Amp – Brown
- 10 Amp – Red
- 15 Amp – Blue
- 20 Amp – Yellow
- 25 Amp – White
- 30 Amp – Green
ATX Type Maxi Fuse
- 20 Amp – Yellow
- 30 Amp – Green
- 40 Amp – Orange
- 50 Amp – Red
- 60 Amp – Blue






























Fantastic.
Such a good description that even I could follow it.
Only thing different for me was the removal of the headlight switch which went: push down in off, twist towards auto.
All was going well until I realised I don’t know how to add the fuse wire to the factory loom, which is where I want to route through rather than making a bee line through the dashboard.
Can anyone point me to more information or instructions on how to get to the rest of the factory loom, and where it goes…
I need an ignition wire in behind the stereo.
Thanks
>> mkv tdi
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I’ve been looking for this exact info on this topic for a long time.
Many thanks for this excellent guide as I need to add extra feeds for my towbar electrics (which was factory fitted !) repair cables are available in packs of 5 which are double ended. cheers – Stuart
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Hi there !!!!
What an excellent reference !!!!
I wonder if you could permit to translate this info in our Spanish Skoda Octavia forum. Obiously i’ll make reference to your post.
This kind of knowledge must be worldwide.
Best regards…..
Arnau
Sure that would be fine.
I’ve found this and one other article extremely helpful. At the risk of sounding churlish, I would like to point out that in the case of some fuse boxes there are many fewer connectors in the fuse blocks that can be tapped into. In my case, I had no pre-installed sources of switched 12V power in my fuse box but three constant 12V tabs already installed. In these cases one must decide if one wishes to tap into a switched or non-switched source of power.
Just to keep any confusion from arising, one may tap into the studs at the bottom of the relay panel, which are designated 75 (switched 12V) or 30 (constant 12V). In these cases one must run 2 wires, one from the power source and one to the item being installed and in need of power.